After a short-lived tour of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur we are now in Varanasi. In Hindu religion this city is considered to be the holiest place on earth. Millions of pilgrims come here every year in the hope of gaining eternal absolution and to be liberated from the cycle of life, death and reincarnation. The city runs along one side of Ganges, a river Hindus believe holds the promise of salvation. Every morning at dawn thousands of people descend the Ghats of Ganges to bathe and pray and to be cleansed of the sins of past rebirths.
In case you’re considering travelling to Varanasi to take a dip in the river, consider that nearly 60.000 bodies are cremated here every year. The pyres burn 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, and the ash is immersed in the river. It’s India's most sacred, yet highly polluted, river. The river counts 3.000 more bacteria than WHO considers safe and still thousands of people come here on a daily basis to bathe, brush teeth and do laundry. Dead bodies and body parts of both humans and cattle can float by almost completely unnoticed. Children, pregnant women, lepers and poor people are not cremated. They are simply thrown into the river together with a stone.
This city is hot and filthy, and smoke from the pyres constantly hangs in the air. It literally feels like you are breathing in dead people. We found out the hard way, that just around the corner from where we live, you can actually witness the cremation and the ceremony when the ash is immersed in the river. I have already seen a dead body being carried through the narrow streets down to Ganges, and that was more than enough for me. I have no desire to encounter death further.
There are serious, well thought-out reasons for everything you see here. The Hindus are aware of the pollution problem, but it falls on deaf ears. The river, personified as a goddess, is worshipped by the Hindus. It is their Mother Ganga, and they are convinced, that she will not bring them any harm. Let me remind you that there are dead bodies in this water and ash from millions of people, and people still come here to bathe and brush their teeth. Varanasi is a city of faith. A city of hope, but to be honest I find it all quite scary. This city makes me silent and reflective and confirms me in my own faith. Let me share Isaiah 43:10 with you:
“You are my witnesses, declares the Lord, You are my servant. You have been chosen to know me, believe in me, and understand that I alone am God. There is no other God - there never has been, and there never will be”.
With that knowledge we are given a tremendous responsibility to share the Truth with those who do not know Jesus Christ. After having spent a week in India I am so thankful for the gift of my faith and the witnesses that God has blessed me with. I can testify that the Hindus are zealous for God, but their zeal is not based on the Truth. I feel helpless and I am struggling with a lot of questions and concerns about how to be a witness to these people.
Let me share with you a part from the letter to the Romans: “How can they believe in him if they have never heard of him? And how will they hear of him unless there is a preacher for them? And how will there be preachers if they are not sent?”. You can’t possibly prepare yourself for this country. In so many ways being here is so much harder than I ever imagined it would be. I long for peace, silence and a hug. In a few hours we will be heading towards Calcutta, and our work will begin. Keep us in your prayers.
I ask you also all to pray for the conversion and salvation of souls. Pray for those who do not believe in God, those who do not know Him and those who have separated themselves from the Church. Pray also for those who preach the word of the Good News and for more witnesses.
Feel free to add your prayers in the comment field below.
With love, Mette
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